Summary
This blog follows the refurbishment of a twenty year old Taiwanese drill press, model RDM 150D, manufactured by Rexon. The drill press manufacturer is still in business at the time of releasing this blog although Rexon only lists one model of floor standing drill press on its website, no spares.
Below is the plate for the Rexon 3/4 HP drill press.
As the drill press was still in operating condition, there was principally cosmetic work to be performed on the drill press.
The motor was removed and inspected for possible faults and wear and tear. An insulation tester was used to check for any breakdown in the motor windings. The motor passed a 1000V check between the 240V active and the case of the motor - earth.
During the motor removal the belts were inspected and deemed in need of replacement, no surprise after a decade of use.
The Rexon drill press employs a dual belt system with an idler pulley connecting the two belts. The ratio between the two belts and pulleys determining the speed (RPM) of the spindle pulley (chuck). On the Rexon drill press the position of the induction motor can be moved toward and away from the idler pulley to set the required belts tension.
Even though the drill press was relatively old, the belts were available off the shelf. The two types used were M-25 and M-26.
Although technically speaking there were no cuts, exposed conductors or similar issues with the mains cable this was replaced regardless. The old grey cable is best replaced with a thicker insulator such as the orange circular type shown below. Additionally mains plugs have undergone changes where the active and neutral are insulated rather than having completely exposed conductors on the plug.
During the recabling additional light was provided on the work area using an LED on a flexible arm. The fitting point for the base of the light was the service entry located between the spindle and the column.
To power the LED a 12V DC supply was used from Digikey - RAC04-12SC/W.
The 1W LED used for the drill press is an Automotive type and usually called either a map reading or flexible gooseneck light. Shown in the image above the Navara 87684BL map reading light with a 40cm arm which retails for much less than any commercial workshop equivalent - whether it is as good only time will be the judge. Note the Navara 5 year warranty!
All original cabling was removed and discarded.
To complete the rewiring the primary of the AC to DC converter was wired to the Start Stop switch. Wiring was made so that the LED could be powered as soon as the drill press was powered.
Once the LED wiring was connected to the DC side of the AC to DC converter all loose cables were tied away, electrical tape fitted were required and the service plate mounted back onto the drill press.
All the updated orange circular cable was fixed in position with the previous cable clamps.
With only natural light in the garage the LED makes a significant difference to the light on the work area. The switch for the light is in the head of the light itself so turning ON and OFF is quick and means that in many instances the arm does not need to be adjusted away from the work area.
Lastly a short video was captured of the Rexon drill press in operation. There is final alignment and belt tensioning required to reduce some of the noise which can be heard during a drilling cycle.
RDM 150D Original State |
RDM 150D Name Plate |
Rust Removal
Most small metallic items were detached from the drill press to remove the surface rust. Larger items such as the drill press table were mounted in a vice and cut back to bare metal using a wire brush mounted to cordless drill. To keep the dust to a minimum during wire brushing, a light coating of motor oil was rubbed into the rusty surface.
Chrome surfaces were cleaned with 00 steel wool and a good helping of an aerosol lubricant WD-40.
Table locking bolts were clamped securely in a bench vice and cleaned with a wire brush. After cleaning a light coating of oil was applied to the surface.
The chuck was earmarked for replacement with a keyless variety. The arbor was still retained as it was reasonable condition.
To suit the original Rexon chuck a compatible JT-3 Taper Mount keyless chuck was installed.
RDM 150D Table After Cleaning |
RDM 150D Feeder Levers Before and After Cleaning |
RDM 150D Locking Bolt Before Cleaning |
RDM 150D Locking Bolt After Cleaning |
RDM 150D Original Chuck with Arbor |
Replacement Keyless Chuck |
Drill Press Induction Motor |
Drill Press Dual Belts |
Drill Press Replacement Belts |
Original Mains Cabling |
Replacement Mains Cabling |
Raco AC DC Power Supply |
Navara LED Fitted to Service Plate |
Old Switch Wiring |
Start Stop Switch Rewiring |
LED to Drill Press Mounting |
New Cables Mounted |
LED Drill Press Activated |
Work Area LED Lighting |
Additional
Pictured below is the motor starting capacitor from the drill press, 150 uF, AC 250 V (Working).
Looks pretty damn good. I am curious of where you live as I am from Australia and interested in the wiring part plus other work done.
ReplyDeleteCliff, thanks for the comments on the press. What specific information were you chasing on the wiring?
ReplyDeleteCheers
Greg
Hi greg, could you please post details of the capacitor that is mounted in the round box that's screwed to the motor? My electrician needed a capacitor to fix another machine and took it out, it blew up and was thrown out and have no idea what to replace it with. Thankyou
ReplyDeleteHi Adam
ReplyDeleteNo problem, the cap is a standard AC motor run, non polarised, 150 uf 250 V AC.
Image of the cap in the Rexon Press - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zk-RocvLMzbYTTM7rufwo0nKtxmsyjXz/view?usp=sharing
Cheers
Greg
Awsome thanks for the replies and the picture, will be good to get it working again.
ReplyDeleteHi Greg! Im really glad I came across this post because I was given this EXACT same drill press which I’m planning on restoring so I can use it, however I’m having an issue with it and it looks like there are a few parts missing from the motor itself, can you please tell me if it uses a capacitor? The one I’ve got seems to only work when I spin the motor manually, if I just switch the button to ‘on’ the motor just seems to make a humming sound! But again gets up to full speed if I spin the motor manually, it looks like there is a spot on the motor where the capacitor (or something else) used to be, it also has two random wires sticking out of it! If it uses one can you get me the serial number?
ReplyDeleteMany thanks
Kane
Hi Kane
DeleteAdded an image and details for the motor start capacitor to the blog. A search on Ebay should provide a few suppliers for that capacitor.
Cheers
Greg
I Apologize there greg i did not see the previous replies when i posted my comment! but thanks very much for your reply!
DeleteExcellent read, thanks 😊
ReplyDeleteI've just bought one of these, and need to replace the chuck, but can't figure out how to get it loosened. Will appreciate immensely if you can spare a few tips.
Hi and thanks for the comments!
ReplyDeleteFrom memory the chuck was fairly stuck but the usual removal technique worked with an application of Penetrene - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbI_7IHAsyw
Cheers
Greg